O-Dae San ($$)
by masami
a while ago
2889 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles
Description:
This is the grandest fish restaurant in Koreatown, a vast, sleek space with a Korean-style sushi bar running the length of the dining room. The private dining rooms are sumptuous. The valet parkers handle more $150,000 Mercedes sedans than anyone else this side of Stuttgart. There are massive live halibut in the sushi tanks and subtleties to O-Dae San’s long menu that we won’t even try to address, because we can rarely tear ourselves away from the ever-fascinating al bap, a big bowl of sushi rice frosted — frosted! — with a half-dozen different kinds of fish eggs, laid out in contrasting streaks radiating from a plop of creamy sea-urchin roe at the center of the bowl like rays from the sun. Nothing, though, goes better with a brimming glass of soju than something like O-Dae San’s hwe do bap, which is to say bits of impeccably fresh sashimi topped with vinegared slivers of cucumber, strips of toasted seaweed, black sesame seeds, tossed at the table with sweet bean sauce and a raw egg. 2889 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 383-9800. Open daily 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Beer and wine. Takeout. Lot parking. AE, MC, V. Korean. $$