Laxmi Sweets & Spices
by baostar
a while ago
638 El Camino Real, Tustin, CA
Description:
Like most Indian markets, this one assaults your sense of smell before any other sense. The sleepy market is pungent with the aroma of curry, turmeric, fenugreek and cardamom, all draping around you like six yards of a sari.
Laxmi has been around for 16 years and exists as a small temple of cluttered, unmanicured hominess stocked with English teas, sacks of jasmine rice, frozen meals of curry and a thriving selection of Indian movies and CDs.
Pass all this by and walk to the back where a short buffet is ready every day around 11 a.m. The lamb curry is tender, vegetable meatballs sit in a creamy yellow gravy, rolled chickpea crackers are wonderful snacks. Maybe the lentil soup is too watery, but the naan, charred in spots, is never insipid.
There are battered and fried potatoes that are perfectly creamy inside. And the pakoras, lentil fritters, are smooth and spicy.
All this requires a sweet ending. The rice pudding is milky and flavored with cinnamon and cardamom and fat raisins. The gulab jamun are deep-fried dumplings tasting vaguely of sweetened condensed milk soaking in simple syrup. You can also fill up on plain lassi or mango lassi, both are thick, creamy slushies made from yogurt.
There's also a vast menu of Indian specialties, including parathas (stuffed pan-roasted wheat breads), outstanding biryanis (a pile of saffron-yellow rice flecked with spices and mixed with tender lamb or chicken), and vegetarian dishes such as baingan bharta (lucious eggplant simmered with onions and cinnamon) and aloo-poori (spicy potatoes served with deep-fried whole wheat bread).
You'll be shocked by the length of dosas - they'll seem like baseball bats. The large, diaphanous crepe is rolled around a filling of spicy potato and served with two sauces, one is made of coconut, the other tart and bright red from tomato. On the same plate is a dark pickle that's as assaulting as anything you've evertasted.
The tika masala is one of a few dishes where spices take a back seat to a sweet, creamy gravy. It's excellent with either lamb or chicken.
Someone in the kitchen here is making this soul food with imprecision, and yet, it'll sink permanently into your psyche.
-ocregister